Once upon a nation, it was possible to hitchhike without making everyone think you were attempting suicide or looking for a chance to commit murder.
Enough of us did it that the subject emerges among so many other reminiscences as we get on in years. During these weeks of shut down, social media has increased our living in the past, and I’m noticing that you can divide veteran long-distance hitchhikers into two categories:
Those who thumbed US Route 66 and those who did not.
That’s because anyone in the former category will say so right away, always. And rightly so. What other road has had a television series and film named for it? Or is celebrated in a song recorded by 125 different artists?
For the most part, the legendary part, 66 was a southwest route. (Thanks or no thanks to Interstate-40 for putting it in the past tense.) My hitchhiking years were mostly while I lived in the Dakotas, so my trips were always along northern highways to both coasts, with a couple of treks up and down the west coast, never south of San Francisco.
With one exception. That was a spring break at South Dakota State when I took a ride with two friends moving to Tucson and then hitched back, crossing 66 in Flagstaff, Arizona, without so much as noticing.
In 2003, I delivered a car to LA and crossed northern New Mexico and Arizona on I-40, taking note of signs for sections of 66 now set aside as historic sites, so the only time I was actually ever on that road was back in St. Louis with my teenage daughter visiting friends in 1995.
All of which puts me in the latter group, but I paid my respects twelve years ago with a courtesy call to the eastern terminus of 66 as it departs from Chicago’s Lake Shore Drive. There’s a photo of me with my back to America’s most celebrated highway looking up at the camera at the top of the front steps to the Windy City’s Museum of Art. Once taken, we had to walk a block for another photo in which the sign would be legible.

Moreover, five years ago, I flew into Los Angeles, the western terminus of 66, where my daughter treated me to the Gene Autry National Center of the American West as it featured an exhibit called Route 66: The Road and the Romance all about the history of cars and travel, motels and roadside diners, music and literature, and—unavoidably but insightfully—race relations.
Due to the Great Depression followed hard by the Dust Bowl, Route 66 was a month’s trip for 3.5 million people who left the plains in the “Dirty Thirties” to find work harvesting fruit and vegetables in Southern California.
Numerous artifacts, including newspaper accounts, photographs, John Steinbeck’s handwritten Grapes of Wrath, and no end of signs all bring this largest sudden migration in American history to life. The signs—from OK 66 to Burma Shave’s serials, from ads with Native American stereotypes to those segregating “Okies” and African Americans—are the stuff of Woody Guthrie’s songs, accompanied by his guitar, also on display.
Years after Black Sunday, the very day Guthrie ad-libbed “So long, it’s been good to know you” as dust piled high enough to block farmhouse windows, an early rock-and-roller named Bobby Troup wrote “Get Your Kicks on Route 66.” The exhibit offers all 125 versions—from Chuck Berry’s immortal charge to Yo La Tengo’s quaint singsong—in a small, page-flipping, button-pushing, made-for-tables-in-diners jukebox that I might have explained to my 36-year-old daughter.
Reluctantly I resist the headphones only because I would not resist joining the Rolling Stones or Nat King Cole in chorus. Instead, I look under glass down a long table at the 120-foot scroll of Jack Kerouac’s On the Road, 66 having been the route of his return trip. Though we see just 12 feet of the single-spaced, no-margin, no-paragraph-break typing, a small touch-screen projects an enlarged image on the wall to view it all.
Kerouac would not have needed the Green Book, open under a glass display near his. My reaction was such that my daughter asked if I was alright, and for most of three years before the Oscar-winning film with that title, I stunned friends who had never heard of it. Whether or not filling stations appeared in the Green Book, they likely sold gas in twin—regular and high test—clear glass tanks we saw on top of ten-foot pumps at 11- and 12-cents per gallon.
Disneyland thrived on those prices by being on the receiving end of the pre-interstate-highway highway that swept Americans from Chicago and St. Louis to their Southern California vacations—at a time when the most popular TV commercial thrilled, “See the USA in your Chevrolet!” Brothers Walt and Roy Disney saw it coming, which is why, six decades later, heiress and documentary filmmaker Abigail Disney, Roy’s granddaughter, appears before congressional committees and writes opinion columns defending the Estate Tax against Republican efforts to repeal it.
Unlike the GOP, she recognizes the difference between what her family built and what federal and state governments built to make the Disney dream come true.
When the interstates replaced the US highways, other businesses catering to fast-paced travel thrived as soon as they appeared. Lost in transition were so many towns and villages along what William Least Heat-Moon immortalized in his 1986 best-seller, Blue Highways. That loss was the basis of an animated film made under the working title Route 66 but released with the title Cars in 2006, as well-represented as Disney in the exhibit. My daughter watched ruefully, rocking two-month-old Lachlan’s stroller, as five- and six-year-olds ran toward the large portrait of the rusty old truck: “Mater! Mater!”
She may have been as rueful when a fetching woman my age sidled up as I viewed a painting of ox-pulled wagons, asking, “Who do you think was the artist?” Conversation with her about anything, let alone a very young Jackson Pollock painting under the starry night of Vincent Van Gogh, I’d welcome, but this was monologue.
Glad to hear most of it, but eventually, seizing a long-awaited pause for breath, I motioned to my daughter: “My wife and I traveled along 66 in Missouri years ago-” No matter. The woman cut right back in, leaving us no choice but to smilingly slip away. Around a corner I apologized for the “my wife” crack, adding, “That woman didn’t even flinch!”
My daughter was equally unfazed: “Dad, this is Los Angeles.”
A fantastical city made possible in no small part by the rock and rolling Route 66.
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