Today I took my appetite into the center of Derry, N.H., to a diner where I had one lunch five years ago and to which I hoped to return.
Then came the pandemic, followed by a rescheduling of my employer’s routes. I’m rarely sent into New Hampshire anymore, and even at that, Derry is far from a strategic location for breakfast or lunch, too late for one, too early for the other.
But today was a fluke, straight up US 3 and down I-93 all the way to Plymouth, a quaint, small college town best known as the place where one of America’s greatest novelists died while in the company of one of America’s worst presidents.
To be fair, Franklin Pierce was a college buddy of Massachusetts boy Nathaniel Hawthorne, long before one’s Scarlet Letter and the other’s White House, and Hawthorne, knowing his end was near, craved another look at the White Mountains where his old friend kept out of public view.
As for Pierce, his accommodation of the slavocracy was so appalling that he returned to New England only to be shunned wherever he went, including his buddy’s funeral. Sixty years later, Robert Frost, who lived most of his life on a farm just south of Derry, penned a fond, epic ode to the state called “New Hampshire” that summed up Pierce with this:
She had one President (pronounce him Purse,
And make the most of it for better or worse.
He’s your one chance to score against the state).
To and from Plymouth, some 70 miles north of the state border, I starved myself until I could feel it–and finally feed it–in Mary Ann’s Diner. Derry is about 20 miles north of Massachusetts–in fact, straight north of my native Lawrence–but I offset that with a delivery east of Concord to Chichester, a general store that would seem more at home with “Pierce for President” signs than with the ones I spotted in its neighborhood.
You find those general stores in the nooks and crannies of all New England states–just as you find diners decked out to immerse you in the 1950s mostly at interstate highway interchanges, but a few in town centers.
I had forgotten that Mary Ann’s was among them, recalling only the generous comfort dish and blue-plate price. Friends and family think I have an inexhaustible photographic memory, and I do recall odd and impossible things such as tricks made at 45s which we believed was Lawrence’s own card game, or so we thought* played under trees or on porches, who won, who lost, who looked on, the songs that played on our transistor radios while we dealt and bid and talked trash.
I can describe many of my Little League baseball games, not just my own hits and errors, and not just highlights, but who was in the stands, who was playing on the other team, the color of their uniforms, things said by the managers and umpires. But it’s a selective memory, so I may not know who won, if I played thirdbase or centerfield, the name of the other team, or if it was one of the games with a certain girl from my class leaning on the rail along Bodwell St. to laugh and wave at me–which I hope was her way of cheering for me.
As I often do, I looked at the specials board and, without looking at a menu, ordered: “Loaded Shepherd’s Pie.”
Let me correct that: I ordered before looking at the menu which proved entertaining enough to make me forget my hunger while awaiting the meal–especially to the tune of Chubby Checker’s “Let’s Twist Again” playing overhead. Quite a clever creation, but the author missed one trick: Derry is the hometown of Alan Shepard, the first American astronaut to fly in space. Shouldn’t they tweak the spelling to name their pie for him?
Still, the pie lived up to the word “loaded” which represented the menu quite well. Omelets included “Kitchen Sink” and “Philly Steak Bomblet,” while for lunch you can have “Billy’s Big Boy Sandwich” or “Dominic’s Monstah Montecarlo.”
But emphasis is on time more than size. “Fave” breakfasts include “The Elvis Presley,” “The Sinatra,” and “The 50s Special,” while the list of lunchtime sandwiches looks like one for an Autorama in the Eisenhower years: Thunderbird, Bel Air, Little Red Corvette, Pink Cadillac, Mustang, Barracuda, ’57 Chevy, Falcon, and–amazingly–Edsel.
Also offered was “Surf City,” which may or not have played on the speakers overhead while I wolfed down the pie. Seems that all I heard was pre-Beatles, popular when I was in elementary school, what we now call bubble-gum music. Beach Boys, Four Tops, Rickie Nelson, Leslie Gore, and all kinds of falsetto hallyballoo that today makes me wonder why our parents didn’t just shoot us rather than telling us how bad it was.
Must admit that, as I left, the tune overhead made my knees wobble. Nostalgia never hit so hard as I froze before opening the door and racing in the rain toward the van across the street. “Easier Said Than Done,” like Alan Shepard’s trek beyond the atmosphere, was more likely in the Kennedy years, but it was still the same vibe we danced to at parties in each other’s homes.
One party was held at St. Augustine’s Elementary School–which went to 8th grade–by the nuns who perhaps wanted to see what we were up to. What they saw were all the boys standing and sitting on one side while all the girls kept to the other. Sister Bernadette, a young woman as I recall, though the habit makes it difficult to figure, listened to four or five songs before she had had enough. She charged in our direction and grabbed one of her favorites by the arm:
“Go over there and ask someone to dance!” she demanded.
“Ye-ye-ye-ye-yes!”
Not too many years ago, at a 50th class reunion, the girl-now-woman reminded me of that dance. The years have been quite good to her, and the joy on her face and in her voice was that of a school girl as she raised her hand: “And you picked me!”
Even then, I guess, I had an ear out for irony. Despite my stutter, we danced to “Easier Said Than Done.”
Don’t know how long it will be before I return, but I do not doubt, as the local bard put it, “that I should ever come back.” That “Big Bopper Burger” sounds pretty good.
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Turns out 45s came from Ireland with our grand- and great-grandparents. For those of you in other parts of the USA, it could be a variation on Euchre.
“Easier Said Than Done”: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TT3ivugR2eY&t=1s

https://www.maryannsdiner.com/









