Mann Orchard, Methuen, Mass.
Sitting at any of these tables while sipping morning coffee and planning the day’s itinerary on maps, I can see my mother moving among the rows of produce, the shelves of preserves and syrups, the tables of pies and pastry, the jugs of cider.
This is Methuen (muh-THEW-en), but if you go out the door, turn south, and walk maybe 15 minutes, you’ll be in my native Lawrence. With a few turns just over the town line, you’ll quickly find what I once called home. And if you did it over 25 years ago, my parents would still be there.
That’s how Mann Orchards became a favorite store for “Auntie Allie” as my many cousins called my mother, a name so musical I started using it myself. And that’s why I’ve enjoyed Mann’s apple and blueberry pies all my life. Yes, fruits and vegetables, too. Yawn…
Odd to think today that she and I were never here at the same time.
She passed away 22 years ago, and it was two years later that I joined the Marrakesh Express. Mann’s was already a regular customer, and I delivered here every Thursday for about twelve years in their former location about a Canadian football field away. While loading the van before my first stop here, the name on the manifest gave me a coincidental chuckle. And when I rolled in two stacks of boxes, I was all business until the invoice was signed. But then I looked up, I looked around, and time itself disappeared with the realization:
She didn’t come here just for groceries.
New England has dozens of these farmstands as large as modest supermarkets. What they all have in common is an authenticity that you feel as soon as you enter. They are as welcome a contrast to supermarkets as a country road to an interstate highway. Rather than enclosed in a series of aisles, you look over and across everything. In place of slick and smooth, you sense rustic and local; instead of fluorescent lights pressing down, sunlight pours through windows so that bulbs overhead go unnoticed. There’s nothing about these havens of nature that hurries you, and that suited Auntie Allie as much as it suits her son. I’ll bet she came here even when she didn’t need to. It would explain why there was never any lack of pies or cider on Buswell Street.
Too bad she didn’t live to see this new place with its very high roof propped up by posts and beams as inviting to the eye as the bins of apples below them.
Most farmstands include bakeries, many have butcheries, and a few, including Mann, sell beer and wine. Mann is among the largest, although it may not be half the size of Lyman deep in the heart of Connecticut which has an 18-hole golf course, a driving range, and a putting green across the road. (For my friends nearby, Mann is about the size of Cider Hill, two or three times the size of Tendercrop, though both of those, like Colby and Long Hill, are more densely packed.)
In this newer location, Mann joined the ranks of those with cafes, and for me became the first to double as a breakfast stop. The breakfast may be nothing more than an orange cappachino (or pistachio) muffin with coffee, but it’s as satisfying as mouth-watering, large enough to last through my connections of dots north into New Hampshire–as close as Buswell–or west to Massachusetts’ Pioneer Valley. (That’s the Connecticut River to readers outside New England.)
For me, the location could not be placed to more strategic advantage. Starting in Rowley, barely 20 miles away, I make Mann my first stop in either direction, north or west. Post-pandemic, I am no longer dispatched south, and here on the coast, there is no east. Well, yes, there’s Cape Ann, but we call that local, as most of the Winfreys live on it while, up here on Plum Island, I keep an eye on them.
So breakfast is easy, delicious, and inexpensive. On short days I might stop for lunch, and it’s a nice spot for a rendezvous with what few friends I still have in Lawrence and Methuen. I’ll recommend all Mann’s soups, but I always return to the chicken-cranberry-walnut salad. Filling, but that doesn’t stop Mann from adding a slice of pie–all at a price you’d call cheap in a restaurant.
Pre-pandemic, I was here so often that a young lass named Gina behind the counter would fill a bag and tell me to take it, a reward for keeping their shelves flush with fudge and chocolate. In the bag would be two orange cappachinos. Another woman there one day noticed me looking longingly at a display of take-home corned-beef dinners, a St. Patrick’s Day special. She reached in front of me, opened the door, took one out, handed it to me, and said, “Yours! Enjoy!”
All my thanks could have been as much for the memories as for the muffins and the meal.
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