Architecturally Yours

Anyone telling me that they are going to Chicago for the first time hears me rave about “architectural boat tours.”

Docents taking you along the Chicago River are devoted to details as fine as the tops of posts at the end of bridges that “echo” the designs of buildings as you float past–just as Boston’s Leonard Zakim Bridge echoes the nearby Bunker Hill Monument.

If they are travelling by car or Amtrak from this direction, I’ll also urge that they stop in Cleveland just to walk around downtown, if nothing else, and look at the buildings, the parks, the monuments. Of course, there is more than one something else, most appealingly the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame and Museum, a glass pyramid shaped as a guitar on Lake Erie designed by I.M. Pei.

Though I never imagined myself an architect, I’ve always appreciated the art no matter what else was going on when I saw it. For all the adrenalin and chaos of the antiwar demonstrations in DC, my first visual association is the rotunda of the Jefferson Memorial–itself an architectural tribute to the fellow who designed Monticello and the University of Virginia.

For all the joy of my daughter’s weekend-long wedding party in San Luis Obispo, right up there with the ceremony, toasts, and banquet, is the memory of walking over a small bridge before stopping to read a plaque telling me it was designed by Frank Lloyd Wright to match the medical center he designed on the other side of the creek:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/40992511@N05/5615422356

When my western friends visit New England, I like to show off our colonial houses, churches, covered bridges, grist-mills, inns, and taverns, as well as Federalist brick homes with columns that make Essex County an architectural feast.

To make them feel right at home, I take them to the many libraries, post offices, and train depots that came later in the 19th Century, very much in the Romanesque, Neo-Classical, and Gothic styles adopted in the American west in real time when first settled.

A bit further away are more recent gems that I include in day trips. Not far over the New Hampshire border is Exeter Academy’s Library designed by Louis Kahn:

Photo by Michael Boer. Other interior shots appear at: https://www.flickr.com/photos/onewe/albums/72157629278698261

And there’s the home designed by Walther Gropius not far from the many sites in Lexington and Concord:

Also by Michael Boer with one more shot in: https://www.flickr.com/photos/onewe/albums/72157629278698261

Names such as Pei, Gropius, and Kahn are well known to us dilettantes, and Wright is a household name, so it was something of a jolt when I spotted the cover of a brand new book on which their names were nowhere to be found:

Architects of an American Landscape: Henry Hobson Richardson, Frederick Law Olmstead, and the Reimagining of America’s Public and Private Spaces.

If we can consider American history as a household, Olmsted is as present as Wright, but his art was landscape. America’s first public parks in Manhattan, Brooklyn, Boston, and Buffalo were all his design, and most urban parks soon to follow were modeled on them.

His home in Brookline, now a historic site, is also on my to-visit list when a friend arrives from the west, especially one with a camera:

The farmhouse was already there when Olmsted moved in and named it Fairsted. His genius was in landscapes that made buildings seem as if they had grown out of them. His pathways were always curved so that the view of a building would keep changing as you walked or rode along it. Photo by Michael Boer.

But it was the other name on the cover, Henry Hobson Richardson, that piqued my interest. How could I possibly never have heard of anyone that could be paired with Olmsted?

Hugh Howard answers that question in his acknowledgements. An author of numerous books on architecture and design, he set out to “right an injustice”:

Henry Hobson Richardson has been pincered by historical irony. Little known by most people, he is esteemed by many architectural historians as America’s most important architect. He dominated his era, inspired the next generation of designers, and exerted an influence on American building rivaled only by that of Frank Lloyd Wright (who quietly revered him) and Thomas Jefferson. Having written about both Wright and Jefferson, my desire was to help bring Richardson back into the mainstream conversation.

When his agent doubted that a book about a forgotten architect could sell, Howard noted that Richardson’s career began and was shaped by his collaborations with Olmsted. Presto! A dual biography was proposed.

The preface reads like a biography of an expanding nation. Howard offers us the advent of railroad when “the natural cycle of the day gave way to the mechanical” and “technology replaced geography as the chief determinant of whether a city prospered” as context for a fast paced tale of how cities grew.

The desire for parks began as a public health issue as cities grew dense, soon followed by the patriotic desire for Civil War memorials. Both included structures of some kind, and Richardson was Olmsted’s choice. In turn, Olmsted, sixteen years older, became Richardson’s mentor, schooling him (a word Howard uses several times) in how to make buildings look like part of a landscape.

Richardson made his own mark when commissioned to design the new Trinity Church in Boston. A review from the Boston Transcript at the time waxes Shakespearean:

The grand exterior dimensions of the church somewhat prepare one for the spaciousness within. But only seeing can realize the superb beauty of the decoration, rich yet not garish, elaborate and not “piled on,” magnificent in splendors, yet noble and dignified, artistic yet religious and fitting for the place. Its richness is beyond compare, because there is literally nothing like it this side of the ocean. Trinity is the first church in the country to be decorated by artists.

Photo by Paul Shaughnessy who catches himself in the act of shooting with this across-the-street reflection.

Those artists included Frederic-Auguste Bartholdi who, fifteen years later, created the Statue of Liberty. When Bartholdi asked for changes in the design, Richardson gladly accommodated him. Says Howard:

Along with his originality, this was a second important Richardson trait… [H]e found the company of other artists congenial, and his frequent embrace and encouragement of them to enhance his architecture would become a hallmark of his career.

Public libraries were a new concept after Civil War. What few existed before the war were rooms in larger buildings. Setting them in buildings of their own with surrounding landscapes, Richardson and Olmsted set the standard quite high, and many across the country were modeled on what they did in New England. With public buildings and grounds for other civic purposes in Buffalo, Albany, and Pittsburgh, they did the same.

The two were also the first to design train stations according to their practical use. Rather than just another two or three-story block of a building, Richardson designed elongated one-story buildings with roofs that overhung open-air platforms along the tracks, such as the one still in use in Framingham, Mass.

Richardson’s style was the rage for as long as he lived, and on his deathbed in 1886 he regretted he would not see the Allegheny County Courthouse & Prison in Pittsburg and Marshall Field’s in Chicago completed. He thought them his best.

After his death, Romanesque soon fell from favor, but most everything Richardson left behind is now a landmark maintained by municipalities, organizations, and others, including private owners of his innovative “open-plan” homes.

Most are still functioning, and in some, such as Trinity Church, you can view the works of various artists and sculptors. Architects of an American Landscape is loaded with sketches of a lively cast of them, including John La Farge, Augustus Saint-Gaudens, Stanford White, and the Hudson River School with an account of how Frederic Church enlisted Olmsted in the effort to halt the commercialization of Niagara Falls.

Sketches, too, of writers and politicians who promoted Richardson’s and Olmsted’s efforts, including Henry Adams, Clover Adams, John Jay, John Ruskin, Robert Treat Paine, and the Sargent family of Boston. Millard Fillmore, Grover Cleveland, and Teddy Roosevelt all have cameos.

The most fascinating sketch was of Orlando Whitney Norcross, whose Boston firm billed itself as “Carpenters and Builders.” Richardson didn’t just hire him but consulted him so closely that Norcross used the “quasi-partnership… to pioneer a new business model.” And so “a new way of organizing a work site” was born, and those who did it had a new name: “Contractors.”

Howard quotes a consulting engineer to explain why the alliance to build Trinity was successful:

Norcross was, in his experience, “ingenious and resourceful and while desirous of making money… ready to subordinate the financial profit to the excellence of results.” For both men, the building mattered most.

That’s the kind of line that makes you nostalgic for a time long gone before you were born. It’s one of many that has me taking closer looks at buildings, bridges, and mills all over New England that I’ve driven past dozens of times.

Just noticed last week that the public library in Woburn, Mass., is so Gothic it seems to say “Enter only if you dare!” This book tells you to dare.

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https://duckduckgo.com/?q=winn+woburn+Library&iar=images&iax=images&ia=images

*Post Script: Henry Adams, a leading historian in his lifetime (of the Jefferson/Madison years) wrote a biography of Aaron Burr. His publisher refused to touch it. Sympathy for the Devil. Unclear what happened next, and Howard says only the manuscript was either lost or destroyed, as if Adams had too much else going on to bother with it. Strange to think that in 1880 he published a novel anonymously. Why not the bio? Imagine finding that manuscript!!!

https://www.kirkusreviews.com/book-reviews/hugh-howard/architects-of-an-american-landscape/

Always looking for a bench, always sitting on one end, always leaving room. Photo by M. Boer, who, along with me probably became one of the first two people to visit Fairsted and Fenway Park (speaking of architectural treats) on the same day.

Literally, a Smash Hit

Had Will Smith not slapped Chris Rock, what would have been the Oscars’ most memorable moment?

After reading so many commentaries that harp on the act with no mention of the provocation, the question feels like a 21st Century version of: “Other than that Mrs. Lincoln, how did you enjoy the play?”

In this case, however, the show went on, and though we were left wondering what actually transpired–if there was a backstory, what was said when the audio was censored, was it staged?–our attention was taken elsewhere.

Which is, after all, what Hollywood is all about. And which is why I offer four speeches for most memorable moment. In no particular order:

Kevin Costner’s could-have-heard-pin-drop-on-a-pillow reminiscence of entering a theater on his own at age seven and watching a four-hour western that redirected his life. Who doesn’t have at least one transformative story set in a movie theater at an early age? In what was easily one of the two most moving speeches by an Oscar presenter that I’ve ever heard, Costner illuminated what we overlook: Every film’s every detail can trigger our imagination, and the best directors are always taking aim.

Jessica Chastain’s acceptance for Best Actress in a Leading Role in The Eyes of Tammy Faye. Almost as a sequel to Costner’s remarks about imagination, Chastain spoke of a film’s possibilities as a call to action. Her scope was sweeping, from inadequate healthcare in the USA to war in Ukraine, but her intent was specific: We cannot be bystanders. Put the Reagan-era politics of Tammy Faye Baker aside, and Chastain was true to character.

Troy Kotsur’s signed acceptance for Best Actor in a Supporting Role in CODA. He gained the best laughs of the night while also offering an honest, welcome, and long-overdue entry into the world of deaf people. No need to put anything aside to know that Kotsur’s speech, which had the interpreter choking up, was true to the spirit of CODA.

Before I get to the fourth, let’s rewind to the Oscars of 2005 when that year’s host ridiculed actor Jude Law’s lack of a nomination for a role in a film that gained bad reviews:

You want Tom Cruise and all you can get is Jude Law? Wait. It’s not the same thing. Who is Jude Law?

Law may not have been present, but his friend Sean Penn was soon on stage to present an award. Before he did, he said this:

Forgive my lack of humor. Jude Law is one of our most talented actors…

Penn then mentioned his work with Law before ending with a defense of the craft regardless of what critics say and what nominations are made. The message was as moving as Costner’s last night. Unlike Costner, the look on Penn’s face and the timbre of his voice were of barely controlled rage. Rage directed at the evening’s host, one Chris Rock.

Which brings us to the last but not at all least candidate for most memorable speech last night. Admittedly, this one would never have been made if not for the hit:

Will Smith’s acceptance for Best Actor in a Leading Role for King Richard. We can only wonder what he had prepared to say if his name was called. Instead, we got a man repentant for what he had just done but still felt the justice in having done it. We got a man who reacted to public ridicule of his wife’s medical affliction made by a guttersnipe. We got a man who thanked Denzel Washington for his counsel after the fact and quoted it: “In your highest moments, be careful, that’s when the devil comes for you.” We got a man devoted to family, very much in the character of Richard Williams. And we got this description of how he views his work:

I’m being called on in my life to love people and to protect people and to be a river to my people. I know, to do what we do, we’ve gotta be able to take abuse. You’ve gotta be able to have people talk crazy about you. In this business, you’ve gotta be able to have people disrespecting you. You’ve gotta smile and pretend that that’s okay.

We even got a touch of comic relief: “Love makes you do crazy things,” as he began. “I hope the Academy will invite me back,” as he concluded.

His remarks gained endorsement from a presenter soon to follow, one Anthony Hopkins who drew another round of applause for Smith. No one cared that Smith apologized only to the Academy and to the viewers with no apology to, not even a mention of, the guttersnipe.

Last night, as an actor and as a man, Will Smith displayed the full range of human emotion. Chris Rock, as ever, was nothing more than a punch line.

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https://www.indiatimespost.com/devil-comes-for-you-denzel-washington-shared-advice-to-will-smith-after-chris-rock-slap/

Vigil from the Bridge

Love the idea of a bridge as the site of a vigil to express support for Ukraine, but eleven o’clock in the morning?

Many friends my age now prefer everything early, going to matinees rather than evening shows, griping when the Red Sox games on the west coast don’t start at seven. We meet at restaurants where they have lunch while I have breakfast. I’m a musician of Irish descent. I don’t know what morning is.

Somehow, in spite of my usual late night reverie on this keyboard, I awoke to see an even 10:00 on the clock. I resolved to let breakfast wait, and settled for a cup–okay, two–of coffee before throwing my clothes on to get out the door. Had I been just ten seconds quicker, I’d have joined the one-hour vigil at about 11:15.

Telephone. Many of my friends would chide me for this dilemma. See!, they would say, If you had a cellphone, you could have had that call while driving!

To me, that’s yet another compelling reason not to have a cell. Instead, I had a seat and enjoyed a chat with a dear friend calling to wish me a happy day-after birthday and talk about the possibility of a day-trip up the Maine coast. That led to my giving her news of my daughter’s move to the Massachusetts coast, which led to news of my grandkids, which led to my telling her how much they liked the children’s book she gave me to read to them over the holidays, which led to her idea of turning my restaurant blogs into some kind of tourist pamphlet, which led to…

Which led to my not getting off the phone until nearly 11:30.

But I already had my shoes on, so why not? At least I’ll see how it went. According to the notices, the vigil would line the Chain Bridge, so when I rounded the corner after the rotary, I was surprised to see no-one at all. However, the Chain Bridge goes only part way across the Merrimack to an island where another bridge connects Newburyport and Amesbury. You could call the island a bridge bridging bridges.

I kept driving and was soon waving to about thirty folks on the second bridge dressed mostly in blue and yellow, many with Ukraine’s flag, braving the raw mist of winter’s last day. At the end of the bridge was a spot to put my car, and so I walked back, a reinforcement for the final quarter-hour, replacing someone who had already left.

No telling how many were there when it began, but based on what I heard, I had joined about half of the original cast. Many of them I knew, if not by name, by sight from behind the counters of the Screening Room, including an elderly couple (i.e. my age) who drove down from Portsmouth. One fellow, a retired music teacher, joked that I might have been there to busk.

The response from drivers and passengers going by was all positive. Luckily, no one lives near the mid-river spot we occupied, or they’d have endured a full hour of horns almost non-stop. Rolled down windows for the sake of cheers and thumbs-up may have chilled the interior of the cars, but they offered at least an illusion of warmth to those of us in the outdoor chill.

Unlike recent local rallies in Market Square–such as those in reaction to Trump’s embrace of Putin in Helsinki and following the release of the Mueller Report‘s damning evidence of Russian assistance in Trump’s election–no one expressed opposition. This time, the intent matched that of America’s own returned-to-sanity leadership. Except for the Trump wing of the Republican Party and Putin’s cheerleaders at Fox Noise, America is united in support of Ukraine.

At least I was there to say goodbye to those who planned the vigil as they left, a few at a time. At noon, they broke into a round of applause to signify the vigil’s end, and before long we were walking off the bridge, half of us in each direction. As I started one way, I remembered something, turned around, and hurried the other way to get the attention of the music teacher:

“Say what you want about busking, but the only Eastern European song I know is ‘Moscow Nights’,” I told him. “That’s the real reason I came unarmed.”

He laughed, and responded instead to my earlier complaint regarding time: “I know jazz musicians who were surprised to learn that there were two eleven o’clocks in the same day.”

That’s when it dawned on me (a coincidental pun) that “vigil” means a observance conducted at a time ordinarily reserved for sleep. But it was too late to tell him, or anyone else, that, though late as I was, I was literally the only one there conducting a vigil.

By that time, I was quite alone in the middle of the bridge, on the movable span that allows boats with tall masts to navigate upriver. There, I stopped to read the memorial plaque, partly surprised that this bridge, about the length of a football field, had its own name: The Derek S. Hines Memorial Bridge, named for a local 25-year-old First Lieutenant in the US Army killed in Afghanistan in 2005.

Not to equate America’s invasion of that country with what Russia is doing now, but both were justified by false pretenses. If nothing else, it serves to remind us of the position that Russia’s soldiers are now in, and that their parents are much like those of Derek Hines who were the first to drive across the bridge when it was dedicated and opened in 2012. Soldiers all fighting in good faith, with families who believe in their cause.

Despite our near unanimity of support for Ukraine, our own freedom from false pretenses is tenuous at best as numerous states have restricted or are about to restrict voting rights, or simply grant their state legislatures the power to overturn elections.

Might be a good idea for us to take a walk on the Hines Bridge–or on any number of bridges across the country named for fallen soldiers in false-pretensed wars, including the Donald Wilkinson Bridge that links Plum Island to the mainland, named for one of America’s 58,220 casualties in Vietnam. We need to read the plaques, look at the likenesses, and imagine the lives that were put on the line in all good faith.

Vigils are good, but it’s vigilance that is necessary. We should all lose sleep until we get it right.

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https://www.newburyportnews.com/news/local_news/newburyport-soldier-remembered-for-his-sacrifice/article_608af3fc-0b09-5120-ad3e-fa575ab1f49b.html
https://crazyasacoolfox.blogspot.com/2010/07/sepia-saturday-bridge-to-freedom.html

When I Come to It

BridgeSide Grille, Sunderland, Mass.

Don’t know (yet) what photographers plan or have in mind when they set out to shoot a bridge, but a writer could go crazy trying to pick from whatever they take. From the bridge or toward it? Vertical or horizontal? Showing what’s below or what’s across? And in which direction?

Any choice is yet more difficult when the bridge is not the subject, but the namesake for the newest lunch stop on the Marrakesh Express: BridgeSide Grille on the east side of the Sunderland Bridge over the Connecticut River in Massachusetts’ Pioneer Valley.

Never thought I’d add a blog for a place after just one stop, but the first forkful of BridgeSide’s St. Patrick’s Day special was the taste-bud equivalent of striking gold. Mouth-watering to the last bite. Yes, it was the day, and I had gotten out of bed determined to have corned beef and cabbage somewhere along the day’s route that would send me west on the Mass Pike until turning due north along the Connecticut before turning back toward home on The Deuce.

A drop short of Springfield caused me to find my way to Route 116, a much shorter alternative than the interstate to my next drop north in Deerfield, as well as a feast for the eyes. In addition to the fields and forests of a river valley, there’s an abundance of Richardsonian Romanesque architecture in the small college towns, most notably the campus of Mt. Holyoke.

I’d been on this road but a few times and had noticed BridgeSide’s attractive sign thinking it had to be good. But the timing was never right. Instead, I’d continue right across a most attractive bridge with side-rails painted in what I now call Ukraine-blue. If there’s any such thing as a real optical illusion, the aptly-named Sugar Loaf Mountain immediately at the other end makes the bridge appear considerably shorter than it is.

One good visual trick deserves another, so BridgeSide is about twice the size that it appears to be from the road. Moreover, there’s an outdoor patio where I’d have sat if not for the day’s rain. Indoor or outdoor don’t matter much when you dig in to an Irish plate this good. When the waitress came by and asked how it was, I blurted out something that I would never myself believe:

“Even the soda bread is delicious!”

She laughed, which I took as a sign that she knew, as I have always believed, that Irish soda bread is considered some kind of joke, maybe an admission that Celtic dishes will never be compared favorably to any Mediterranean or Asian or South-of-our-border cuisine.

Before leaving I asked how often they make it, hoping to hear her say “every Thursday.” That was not to be, but when she mentioned that there’s a ruben on the menu, it occurred to me to see what else is there. Keeping in mind how well they do with corned beef, cabbage, potatoes, and carrots, I could go crazy trying to pick from it.

A “Blue Maple Burger”? I’d order that just to say it.

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Rt. 116 and Mt. Sugar Loaf in the background.

Judging from the headlights on the approaching car, I’ll guess that this postcard is at least 75 years old.

Mass. Route 116, leaving Sunderland for Deerfield, crossing the Connecticut River.

New England’s longest and largest river. Further north it is the boundary between Vermont and New Hampshire.

Throwing Time in Reverse

Last thing I need is another birthday, but today was one, and so I thought I’d celebrate it–or counter it–by throwing time in reverse.

Before the pandemic, two part-time jobs suited me quite well. Long distance driving is just right for thinking long thoughts, and projecting films in a theater provides time to write them down.

Then there were eight weekends every fall playing in a Renaissance festival, and as weather allowed, busking weekends in the spring and early summer. For all of my four full decades busking, I never thought it would end. Whenever I was asked, my answer was pat:

Death may beckon, but retirement does not.

Enter Covid-19.

Deliveries? Done. Cinema? Shuttered. Faire? Closed. Busking? Hard to play wind instrument while wearing a mask. And so, while I never exactly retired, it was forced on me. Four times.

As the pandemic appeared to subside last summer, I played myself back into King Richard’s realm, and so I resumed my most physically demanding gig on Labor Day Weekend. Huge crowds. Many apparently eager to get out and, fortunately for strolling minstrels such as yours unruly, happy to tip. By far my best season in that regard. As one of the Buzzards Bay Buccaneers put it on the final day, “Fives are the new Ones.”

Two weeks later, to my everlasting amazement (and gratitude), the young new owners of the Screening Room asked if I’d like to return. A married couple with a young son, they craved at least one day when they could be in the same place at the same time and share a meal other than breakfast. Attendance has been coming back slowly. I only hope it’s now enough for them to afford an employee every Wednesday.

Two months after that, I dropped in at Winfrey’s Fudge & Chocolates, to offer myself as an extra driver for holiday deliveries. Never thought of that as coming out of retirement until they let me know that Thursday had turned into a day when too many orders were going in every direction. Since then, they’ve also dispatched me on Fridays, a shorter day when they tell me to sleep late. Never an argument there.

Within three months, then, I came out of three retirements. The sort of thing that you reflect on when you approach a birthday that approaches par at Pebble Beach and Augusta. And as weather kept improving, I thought, why not make it four?

Downtown Newburyport was surprisingly busy, and my spot under the tree was open, though it was still cool enough that I did not need its shade. Many kids in groups. Never occurred to me that this might be a week of school vacation, something on which I once kept a vigilant eye.

As always, they were loud, rambunctious, but that just gave me cover for working off a lot of rust. Not only that, but I gained their immediate favor, which made everything easy for me. One boy started doing some hideous mimicry of me, but a passerby, a woman of about 30 with a husband pushing a stroller, told him to stop. He did, and walked away. When I finished a tune, he returned to apologize. “Don’t worry, it’s okay.” He apologized again. I smiled and offered a fist-bump.

What new world is this?

As happened at King Richard’s on that first day last September, I was stumbling with many of my best songs but able to salvage them with an improvised tune until I could play it through. Whereas my usual busk is about half reading behind the stand, and half dancing away from it, today I was starting songs at the stand and skipping away to launch into other songs in the same key, or to improvise. Some tunes I never found at all, but there were at least a dozen that ripped, intact, as if waiting to be played and sent headlong in every direction–mostly those I play with the Buzzards Bay Buccaneers, or Buccaneer Bay Buzzards when I join them.

A little over an hour later, it became overcast, the temperature dropped, and I was, frankly, winded. Got home and lied down for a minute that became an hour before I could move again. Yes, that’ll take some work, too. No retiring from that.

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First saw this about seven years ago. I do not know nor have I ever met Barbara Busenbark, nor am I concerned that her last name is an anagram for “busker ban.” According to this site, the original painting is still available for a tidy $950, almost as much as I made in tips in all 18 days of King Richard’s last year. Prints are now marked down from $22 to $18: https://fineartamerica.com/featured/newburyport-piper-barbara-busenbark.html

Auntie Allie’s Mann

Mann Orchard, Methuen, Mass.

Sitting at any of these tables while sipping morning coffee and planning the day’s itinerary on maps, I can see my mother moving among the rows of produce, the shelves of preserves and syrups, the tables of pies and pastry, the jugs of cider.

This is Methuen (muh-THEW-en), but if you go out the door, turn south, and walk maybe 15 minutes, you’ll be in my native Lawrence. With a few turns just over the town line, you’ll quickly find what I once called home. And if you did it over 25 years ago, my parents would still be there.

That’s how Mann Orchards became a favorite store for “Auntie Allie” as my many cousins called my mother, a name so musical I started using it myself. And that’s why I’ve enjoyed Mann’s apple and blueberry pies all my life. Yes, fruits and vegetables, too. Yawn…

Odd to think today that she and I were never here at the same time.

She passed away 22 years ago, and it was two years later that I joined the Marrakesh Express. Mann’s was already a regular customer, and I delivered here every Thursday for about twelve years in their former location about a Canadian football field away. While loading the van before my first stop here, the name on the manifest gave me a coincidental chuckle. And when I rolled in two stacks of boxes, I was all business until the invoice was signed. But then I looked up, I looked around, and time itself disappeared with the realization:

She didn’t come here just for groceries.

New England has dozens of these farmstands as large as modest supermarkets. What they all have in common is an authenticity that you feel as soon as you enter. They are as welcome a contrast to supermarkets as a country road to an interstate highway. Rather than enclosed in a series of aisles, you look over and across everything. In place of slick and smooth, you sense rustic and local; instead of fluorescent lights pressing down, sunlight pours through windows so that bulbs overhead go unnoticed. There’s nothing about these havens of nature that hurries you, and that suited Auntie Allie as much as it suits her son. I’ll bet she came here even when she didn’t need to. It would explain why there was never any lack of pies or cider on Buswell Street.

Too bad she didn’t live to see this new place with its very high roof propped up by posts and beams as inviting to the eye as the bins of apples below them.

Most farmstands include bakeries, many have butcheries, and a few, including Mann, sell beer and wine. Mann is among the largest, although it may not be half the size of Lyman deep in the heart of Connecticut which has an 18-hole golf course, a driving range, and a putting green across the road. (For my friends nearby, Mann is about the size of Cider Hill, two or three times the size of Tendercrop, though both of those, like Colby and Long Hill, are more densely packed.)

In this newer location, Mann joined the ranks of those with cafes, and for me became the first to double as a breakfast stop. The breakfast may be nothing more than an orange cappachino (or pistachio) muffin with coffee, but it’s as satisfying as mouth-watering, large enough to last through my connections of dots north into New Hampshire–as close as Buswell–or west to Massachusetts’ Pioneer Valley. (That’s the Connecticut River to readers outside New England.)

For me, the location could not be placed to more strategic advantage. Starting in Rowley, barely 20 miles away, I make Mann my first stop in either direction, north or west. Post-pandemic, I am no longer dispatched south, and here on the coast, there is no east. Well, yes, there’s Cape Ann, but we call that local, as most of the Winfreys live on it while, up here on Plum Island, I keep an eye on them.

So breakfast is easy, delicious, and inexpensive. On short days I might stop for lunch, and it’s a nice spot for a rendezvous with what few friends I still have in Lawrence and Methuen. I’ll recommend all Mann’s soups, but I always return to the chicken-cranberry-walnut salad. Filling, but that doesn’t stop Mann from adding a slice of pie–all at a price you’d call cheap in a restaurant.

Pre-pandemic, I was here so often that a young lass named Gina behind the counter would fill a bag and tell me to take it, a reward for keeping their shelves flush with fudge and chocolate. In the bag would be two orange cappachinos. Another woman there one day noticed me looking longingly at a display of take-home corned-beef dinners, a St. Patrick’s Day special. She reached in front of me, opened the door, took one out, handed it to me, and said, “Yours! Enjoy!”

All my thanks could have been as much for the memories as for the muffins and the meal.

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The interior. The cafe is at the back of this photo. The thin, brown boxes on the middle shelf on the left are Winfrey’s buttercrunch, one of many items I deliver.

Something tells me this photo was taken in the month of October very early before they opened. That parking lot is half full by the time I get there for breakfast.

Eleanor Butruccio Garvey (1925-2000), photo circa 1980.

With granddaughter and husband, circa 1980. Photo by an inept photographer, salvaged by Lenovo.

Still a Suspect I Suspect

When the Screening Room booked Ted K, I was tempted to tell the new owners to put my picture on the poster and bill it as my biography.

New to Newburyport, they’d have no way of knowing that, just 12 years ago, a few commenters on the Daily News website insisted that I was the Unabomber, so I spared Ben and Becca any cloud of suspicion concerning their one and only employee.

Frankly, I spared myself any attempt to explain how the question was raised 14 years after Ted Kaczynski was finally tracked down, arrested, convicted, and sent to Colorado’s “SuperMax” penitentiary for eight lifetime counts and no chance of parole. Maybe the anonymous trolls were seven years ahead of the pronouncement of “alternative facts.”

Anyway, I had already exhausted that joke during our run of the Norwegian film titled The Worst Person in the World, so once again I let a disgruntled Harvard grad and Berkeley math professor from Chicago take the blame for a series of pipe-bombs–most mailed, a few hand-delivered–that killed three people and injured another 23 over a 17-year span that eluded the FBI under four US presidents.

Kaczynski would say “take the credit,” and according to the early reviews, that’s foremost in Ted K’s portrayal of him. And it is a feature, not a documentary. To the filmmakers’ credit, the film, while based on the life and writings of Theodore Kaczynski, is as much about how he became part of American culture. As one reviewer put it:

From magazine covers and news programs, everyone knew the police-artist sketch of a figure in sunglasses and a hoodie. For a delirious moment, the “Unabomber” was as large in the national imagination as O.J. Simpson being chased in his Ford Bronco. With a dark intensity and an unnerving intimacy, actor Sharlto Copley partners with director Tony Stone to bring this figure to life in a way that is at once transgressive and thought-provoking.

There is a mistake in that. While it was delirious whenever a package exploded in the offices of airline executives or lobbyists for lumber companies, the Unabomber was in the national consciousness for way more than a moment–or for the months that the OJ Simpson case was litigated. Better comparison would be to DB Cooper who hijacked a commercial Boeing 727, put on a parachute, and jumped out with a couple bags of stolen cash somewhere over an Oregon forest never to be seen again.

Even that doesn’t do as comparison since Cooper was never heard from again. Kaczynski kept striking, and he wasn’t just heard from, he was read.

After his last strike, he made it known that he would stop sending or planting bombs in return for the publication of what he titled “Industrial Society and Its Future” which would become known as “The Unabomber Manifesto.” The New York Times and Washington Post both ran it, all 35,000 words of it.

To call it anti-technology would be like calling cancer an inconvenience. And to compare it to cancer may be an understatement. To compare it to inconvenience would be ironic. He fully believed that all modern conveniences made people weak, not just physically but mentally, and in no way fit for anything called self-governance. Best summary for it would be the titles of the two books that he has written and published while in prison: Technological Slavery and Anti-Tech Revolution: Why and How.

That, plus the sheer length of it led my critics to make the comparison to me. No matter that the manifesto was the combined length of any 50 opinion page columns I’ve ever written, anything beyond 50 words is beyond their attention spans.

The manifesto led to Kaczynski’s arrest after it rang bells for his brother David who wasted no time dropping a dime. The FBI handed letters supplied by David to an expert in language analysis at Vassar College early in 1996. The answer was yes, and in April the FBI raided Ted Kaczynski’s secluded cabin in the mountains of Montana.

Five months later, my daughter entered Vassar and heard the buzz. Not sure how much interest she took at first, but before long, much of what she heard about Kaczynski’s manifesto rang a few bells for her.

The Unabomber banged away for hours on an old Olympia much like the one that she’d hear through the walls while in her room. Technology? One of the items banged out on that typewriter was a call to ban the automatic transmission. Others were anti-television, anti-toilets-that-flush-themselves, and anti-many things that prepared me for my all-out war on cellphones in years to come.

No, she never accused me of serial bombings that began about the time she was born. But she wasn’t entirely joking when she said, “You do fit the profile.” Maybe she just couldn’t resist.

This Saturday night I’ll be able to see for myself when Ted K plays the Screening Room. As a bonus, I’ll be watching Ben–one of the Screening Room’s new owners–on the screen in the role of a computer store salesman. I just hope he keeps in mind that I am not the guy who killed him.

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https://www.newburyportmovies.com/ted-k

https://www.history.com/topics/crime/unabomber-ted-kaczynski

To Do What Must Be Done

Sisu is what they call it in Finland.

While it has always reminded me of the Jewish word, mensch, “a person of integrity and honor,” I now learn that Finns consider it not a noun but a verb denoting:

… the immense power of life within you and nations that won’t let life perish, the fire in the belly that transmutes fear into faith in the face of adversity, and… the courage to take action against impossible odds.*

As you can imagine, the word sisu has been echoing throughout Finland since the start of the invasion. In a country that also shares a border with Russia–and has already been threatened by Putin–they can easily relate. Whether the rest of the world knows the Finnish word or not, most all of us agree–with awe and admiration–that the Ukrainian people are sisu.

And that President Volodymyr Zelenskyy is a mensch who personifies sisu.

Praised heaped on Ukraine’s president–from the entire world with the exceptions of Russian oligarchs, Belarus officials, America’s Republican Party, and Fox Noise–is well-deserved. In fact, it is understated by those who have forgotten what he did less than three years ago.

While there’s no comparison between a phone call and a military invasion, keep in mind that the implication–or the veiled threat–of the phone call was to leave a nation vulnerable to military invasion from a hostile neighbor already armed at its border.

Keep in mind, too, that the phone call came from the then-president of the United States who repeatedly allied himself with the Russian dictator.

Volodymyr Zelenskyy has now stood up to both of the world’s foremost proponents of fascism.

He’s more than a noun. He’s a verb. Sisu!

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https://ghanafiles.com/ukraines-president-volodymyr-zelenskyy-biography-real-age-facts-wife-children-houses-cars-net-worth/

The quote is from a Finnish page on social media which comes to me second-hand. The emphasis on four words is in the quote.

Terms of Beguilement

Though all attention is on Russia and Ukraine, there’s an unmistakable American echo in this invasion. Not rolling in on tanks or flying over in planes, but finessed with language.

When Donald Trump seconded Vladimir Putin’s description of his invading forces as “peacekeepers,” he was echoing the “alternative facts” offered by his faithful advisor, Kellyanne Conway, in the days following his inauguration.

Within days of Conway’s oxymoronic claim, bookstores sold out of 1984, George Orwell’s 73-year-old classic dystopian novel, and the publisher ran another edition. The rush had not so much to do with surveillance and a police state, or with conformity and loyalty oaths, as it had to do with Orwell’s theory of the distortion of words and revisionist history to achieve all of the above.

All those years we thought 1984 a warning against oppression, it never occurred to us that it might serve as a blueprint for oppression.

We like to think that we control language, but as Orwell reasoned, “if thought corrupts language, language can also corrupt thought.” Indeed, in 2017, many Americans began believing in “alternative facts.” In 2020, it turned into alternative science, and by 2021, who knows how many of COVID’s victims died of it?

We can thank those who parse Putin’s “bizarre” tirade at the start of the invasion for its distortions of history and language, but we need to start parsing equally bizarre language that is taken for granted–sometimes written as law–right here in the USA.

This weekend marked the tenth anniversary of the murder of Treyvon Martin in Florida.

We all know the story and still feel the racial fallout. Rather than rehash, let’s strip it of race and all other detail, and consider only its language:

One person, A, walks past another, B. With a gun, B follows A. A keeps moving away from B. B pursues A. B catches A, an altercation starts, the gun fires, A is dead. B does not deny shooting A. In court, B is acquitted when his lawyer invokes something called “Stand Your Ground.”

In a nutshell, B, who pursued A, is judged to have stood. Unless B left his home and went after A on a conveyor belt (which he himself would have to have owned since the defense was “standing his ground”), this is transparent bullshit.

In any other English-speaking country in the world and at any other time in history, this would be unthinkable. Here in 21st Century America, “Stand Your Ground” is law in many states.

Before long, as most observers tell us, the Supreme Court will hear a case that could determine the fate of Roe v. Wade, the 1973 decision that gave women full reproductive rights.

Anti-Choice activists–to use a far more accurate name for a movement that ignores the necessities of life after birth–have been waiting all these years for a shift in the Supreme Court. When Amy Coney Handmaid Tale Barrett replaced Ruth Bader Ginsburg, they had it.

Whether we call them Anti-Choice or Pro-Life, and whether we prefer to avoid the word “abortion” (as I just did) with other terms such as “reproductive rights,” they have made a 49-year habit of using the phrase “abortion on demand.”

Again, strip this of the issue and all details:

A woman seeks medical treatment. Does she demand it? Is any clinic ever obligated to give it? If the clinic says no, is there a consequence? If the clinic says yes, does the woman have to pay? What kind of demand is it if there’s agreed-upon payment? Is the payment on demand?

Let’s apply Anti-Choice “logic” to other services whether we pay out of pocket or are covered by insurance: Do we have hernia repairs on demand? Cavities filled on demand? Oil changes on demand? Our driveways shoveled by the neighbor’s kid on demand?

The only other common use of those two words is a commercial pitch from a company that streams movies into your home. They want you to demand what they have.

Again, you smell the bullshit as soon as you open your nose.

In a courtroom, you’d think that “abortion on demand” would be ruled out of order as prejudicial language, but after 49 years of repetition, judges may no longer notice it.

Just as few notice the gratuitous prejudice in phrases frequently in the news, from “hardline feminists” and “environmental extremists” since the 1970s to “radical left” in recent years. Sometimes it’s done with a change of one word, as when the estate tax is called “death tax.” Or an obscure phrase with a menacing sound used repetitiously to make anything the speaker doesn’t like sound evil, such as “critical race theory.”

Those who do this do not want you to be aware of ills they’d rather live with, that may be to their benefit. But they can’t condemn something as undeniably positive as awareness, so they abbreviate the word into one menacing syllable. Hence, states such as Florida are now passing “anti-woke” legislation.

In the parlance of today, prejudicial language such as on demand has become “normalized.”

As has “stand your ground.” And “peacekeeper,” not in the short time since Putin and Trump used it, but since 1986 when the US developed “peacekeeper” missiles to counter an arms buildup by the USSR. Or since 1943 when the US Navy launched a patrol frigate named “Corpus Christie.”

That last was five years before Orwell wrote 1984. Maybe he took it as a blueprint for his warnings of debased language that flew off the shelves of bookstore weeks after Trump’s inauguration.

Given what has been said since, it’s too bad he’s not around to write a sequel.

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https://www.activistpost.com/2016/06/5-ways-orwell-1984-has-come-true.html

A Time of War, a Time of Peace

Nice to see George McGovern making the rounds on social media. He who proclaimed:

I’m fed up to the ears with old men dreaming up wars for young men to die in!

I add an exclamation point to the line as quoted in the meme which, given the timing, appears to be a call for America to stay out of war no matter what borders Putin chooses to cross. Exclamation? Well, he said it during an interview in Gonzo, the 2008 documentary film about journalist Hunter Thompson. A genial, soft-spoken man with a perpetual smile, McGovern was comparing American military involvement in the Middle East at the time to Southeast Asia in the Sixties when he suddenly interrupted himself, raised his voice, and threw up his hands.

Each night, the Screening Room audience cheered the moment, and I never heard what he said in the next few seconds as he calmly resumed his answer to a question.

To a New England audience, it may have seemed like a show of momentary frustration despite the gravity of the words. Yes, I’m a native Massachusetts boy, but I did live seven years in the Dakotas. What my friends here likely don’t know is that, for a South Dakotan, a raised voice and two hands flying upward constitute a full-blown temper tantrum.

McGovern was, of course, the antiwar presidential candidate in 1972. A Democrat who was Robert Kennedy’s closest friend in the Senate and could claim his mantle, McGovern was also a decorated veteran would not allow his staff to publicize his wartime heroism.

He piloted a B-24 Liberator for 35 combat missions in Italy during World War II and received numerous combat awards. Apparently he thought that America would rather vote for a president based on an ability to govern rather than a knack for flying planes or hitting targets.

Be that miscalculation as it may, McGovern knew the difference between a war of choice and a war of necessity, between initiating war and having to stop those who do initiate it. As the son of a Methodist minister and himself a Sunday school teacher, he was as well-versed as Pete Seeger in the Book of Ecclesiastes: “a time of war, and a time of peace.”

Although the Nixon campaign painted him as an extremist, McGovern frequently co-authored legislation with his close friend and fellow WWII veteran, Republican Bob Dole of Kansas, one of the Senate’s leading hawks. In 2007, he delivered one of the five eulogies at a memorial for yet another WWII vet, Kurt Vonnegut, whose novel, Slaughterhouse Five, was a touchstone of the antiwar movement back in the day.

Anyone who voted for him–as I did in ’72 and again in ’80 for re-election to the US Senate in South Dakota–appreciated that inclusiveness and was willing to make those distinctions.

Unfortunately, he, or more precisely his quote, is being floated today by people who make no distinctions. And they are both left and right. Some on the left preach peace, which is admirable, but at all costs, which is not. Do we let Putin take Ukraine? Do we overlook that he has already threatened Finland and Sweden? What if the year was 1939? Do we stand with Churchill or do we cheer for Chamberlain?

On the right it’s complicated. Half the Republicans are condemning Putin, and condemning Biden for not stopping him. The other half is siding with Putin and insisting that Biden stay out of any European involvement. That first half will join the second in a heartbeat if American troops defending the borders of NATO nations are engaged.

Contradiction? Fox News was pro-Putin up to Friday the 25th, slamming Biden for drumming support for Ukraine. As of Saturday the 26th, head cheerleader Tucker Carlson and the rest are now condemning the invasion, ridiculing Biden for not doing enough for Ukraine. At a conservative convention this weekend, Trump and others criticize Putin but save their condemnation for Biden. Some seem to think that Biden has already sent American troops into combat. This is among several glaring falsehoods spelled out in social media chatter prompted by the McGovern quote. Typical claims sound like these:

Biden has caused this war to deflect attention from the stolen election.
It would not be happening if Trump was still in the White House.

No mention of Trump’s praise of Putin’s invasion–and no memory that it was the Ukrainian president that Trump tried to shake down for his own political gain. As for Trump’s parroting of Putin’s claim of “peacekeeping,” they may well believe it. Could be the reason that the conservative conference crowd in Orlando broke into an approving chant: Putin, Putin, Putin…

Fox and the Republicans can afford such contradiction and confusion because both play to an audience that has no memory, no attention span, and no ability to make distinctions between things such as a war of necessity and a war of choice, between the war that McGovern fought and the wars he later opposed.

So, while it’s heartening to see his picture and name making appearances on my screen, it’s depressing, though not at all surprising, to see that the American public still has nothing more than a superficial idea of who George McGovern was and all he stood for.

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